If there is such a thing, Knysna is the heart of the Garden Route. This medium-sized town on the banks of the usually placid and always beautiful Knysna Lagoon is a real tourist haven. The lagoon, which is guarded from the sea by two enormous, rugged, sandstone cliffs, known as The Heads, is a fabulous playground as well as being the source of the cultivated oysters for which Knysna is famed.

The Eastern Head is quite developed with houses, guest houses, a dive shop and a restaurant in the most spectacular position. The Western Head, which is reached by scenic boat trip or a short paddle, is a private nature reserve with less physical infrastructure but loads of tourist activities. Tractor tours, abseiling and quad bike tours are all on offer, and there is a restaurant with a view to rival the one on the Eastern Head.

There is excellent diving in Knysna, both in the lagoon and outside in the open sea. One of the more interesting dives, a wreck right in the channel in The Heads, is only to be explored at slack tide, and then by relatively strong divers.

It’s surrounded by wonderful indigenous forests with historical gold mines to explore, wonderful hikes and some of the most fabulous mountain biking in the world. No exaggeration. The ubiquitous Knysna loerie is a beautiful green and red bird that hides out in the forest, occasionally showing its scarlet underwings as it takes flight. Even more elusive and beautiful is the iconic Narina trogon, which is spotted relatively often.

Although there are no real beaches actually within the town, the nearby Noetzie and Brenton Beaches are spectacular. Brenton, in particular, is a great beach for walking as it stretches 6km to Buffalo Bay, where a wonderful horse trail operator offers the exhilarating experience of cantering along the beach with the wind in your hair. The surfing is good, too.